Most tourists don’t come to Chile to do a tour of the big cities. They start in San Pedro de Atacama way up north, in the driest desert in the world, and then quickly pass through middle Chile before heading deep into the Lakes District where volcanoes, hot springs, forests, and of course, lakes, await them. A brief stopover in Santiago, a safe and modern metropolis lacking in any sort of charm or personality, may turn them off from visiting one of the most interesting cities in South America less than ninety minutes away, Valparaiso.

